Amritsar, in north-west India, is a vibrant and friendly city. It is most famous for the spectacular Golden Temple, the holiest shrine of the Sikh religion. Sacked by the Afghans in 1761, the shrine was rebuilt by the Sikhs’ greatest secular leader, Maharajah Ranjit Singh. He donated the gold top, believed to be gilded with 100kg of pure gold, which gave it the name Swarn Mandir, or Golden Temple. On average 75,000 people a day eat for free from the temple’s kitchen, which is open 24 hours and serves simple but wholesome vegetarian food including traditional dal.
A short walk from the temple is the Jallianwala Bagh memorial, which commemorates the events of the 1919 massacre by the British. The carefully choreographed Sunset Retreat ceremony at the Wagah border, which separates India and Pakistan, is a quirky experience worth including.
The auspicious Palki Sahib ceremony is performed twice a day at the Golden Temple in Amritsar. To the accompaniment of drums and hymns, a gold and silver gilded palanquin (palki) decorated with silk brocades is prepared by the devotees to carry the Guru Granth Sahib (the Holy Book) from the main shrine to the inner sanctum. It rests here for the night until the ceremony is performed again the next morning to return it to the main shrine.
Situated in the north-western Himalaya and set amid evergreen forests and snow-capped peaks, the Indian hill station of Shimla was the summer capital of the British Raj. The Mall is Shimla’s main promenade. Here, stately colonial buildings rub shoulders with half-timbered houses, churches and other historic landmarks, as well as the city’s colourful market, Lakkar bazaar and the restored Gaiety theatre, once frequented by Rudyard Kipling. Shimla’s ornate Viceregal Lodge, built in 1888 by the British viceroy Lord Dufferin, houses the Indian Institute of Advanced Studies as well as a museum and beautifully laid out gardens.
At an altitude of 2,500 metres, our recommended hotel, located a picturesque 45-minute drive from Shimla and overlooking a magnificent vista of rugged mountains, snow-clad peaks, verdant meadows and cedar forests.
Travel on the toy train from Kalka to Shimla. Completed in 1903, this railway line is considered one of the finest engineering feats in India and offers stupendous views of the Himalayan scenery. Less well known is the charming narrow gauge railway that links Pathankot with Jogindernagar near Dharamsala. The views of the Kangra valley are simply spellbinding as the train chugs along at a sedate pace. The magnificent views more than compensate for the hard seats.
Journey across the heart of Shimla town, passing Christ Church, The Ridge, the restored gothic Gaiety theatre, Scandal Point, the Post Office and Gorton's Castle, before proceeding to the Viceregal Lodge, with its magnificently kept lawns and botanical gardens. This was the former residence of the British viceroy Lord Dufferin and remained the seat of power in colonial India during the summer months until the 1940s.
| - | J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | 19 | 22 | 26 | 34 | 39 | 40 | 35 | 34 | 35 | 32 | 27 | 21 |
| B | 4 | 6 | 11 | 17 | 22 | 25 | 26 | 25 | 22 | 16 | 9 | 5 |
| C | 27 | 28 | 37 | 18 | 18 | 51 | 199 | 183 | 97 | 19 | 6 | 15 |
| - | J | F | M | A | M | J | J | A | S | O | N | D |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| A | 11 | 12 | 17 | 22 | 25 | 26 | 23 | 22 | 22 | 21 | 17 | 13 |
| B | 2 | 3 | 7 | 12 | 15 | 17 | 16 | 16 | 14 | 17 | 7 | 4 |
| C | 78 | 70 | 74 | 50 | 66 | 170 | 410 | 334 | 190 | 38 | 16 | 41 |